Sorry about having so much content in this weeks newsletter, it just kept growing.
 

Paddlers at Ascot Kayak Club were a little surprised to see me paddling so early this morning. Usually I don't go out until we have walked our dog Nikki and the sun is truly up. But this morning we were taking a food drop to friends walking the Bibbulmun Track so I wanted to get 30 minutes training in at least before we went. I got home and realised I got up an hour too early so I could have done more.

Mark Sedgwick and Francis Nolan take off for an 11.3km paddle. 

It's surprising how many planes are taking off at that time in the morning.

WAs Steven Lowther in action at Penrith.
 

WA Slalom Pathways Squad (WASPS) is the state slalom kayak performance development opportunity in the pathway for athletes at an intermediate to elite level of performance, often between club level and WAIS level. Selection criteria is set to ensure athletes showing training skills, self-management qualities and performance potential are provided with further development.

There wasn't any white water but there was a lot of action at Ascot on Tuesday night.

The group getting ready for a warm up paddle and some sprints before the main handicapped race.
 

Paddlers are sent off slowest first paddling a circuit 3 times = 3.8kms.
 

15 paddlers in this group out of 28 are about to arrive at the finish line virtually together. The faster paddlers catch up with the slower paddlers near the finish line.

Paddlers were so close we had to video the finish just in case.
 

Sharon Cobley, Steph Bedden, Kris Smith and I cruise up river on Sunday evening. There were millions of insects / flying ants, flying and dropping in the water and crawling over us.

The ducks were having one hell of a feast. The feast would help the ducklings to grow.
 

Paddle in Pink.

Ascot Kayak Club joined Paddle Australia in organising a fundraiser for the McGrath Foundation. They chose to run it as part of their Wednesday Night Race. Pink T shirts were especially made for the event by Graeme from Hypersports who is supporting the event by printing the shirts at cost. 39 paddlers took part, most in pink. Three women really went to town and I must admit I wouldn’t want to be seen walking down the street with them, but they certainly took on the spirit of the night. Wendy Burdett and Nicky Taylor wore flamboyant outfits too hard to describe and Steph Bedden came in a onesie bunny outfit complete with a fluffy tail. (I didn’t quite know how she was going to sit in the ski without getting pain or maybe a thrill.)

Some of the paddlers in pink.
 

Wendy Burdett and Nicky Taylor looking the part.
 

Bunny girl Steph Bedden with Luna, Geraint, Izzy, Sharon and Zoe.

There were 2 courses, a long and a short, the long was 8.5kms and the short 6.4kms. With 24 paddlers on the long course line there wasn’t much room to squeeze in so I went to the outside. As well as the AKC regulars members there were 16 paddlers from the Tuesday night AKC Progressive Racing Group taking part. 

For me it was one of those most important races of the year and one I had to win. PRG paddlers Sharon Cobley and Jayden O’Brien were also on the line. Jayden and I have always had a good tussle, he beating me by a nose one week, me beating him by a nose another week so I really didn’t mind losing to him. However I hadn’t paddled against Sharon in a proper race for a while and up to now I was still the victor.  But she has started training more and has a great sprint on her which I can’t match. Not only that I have been giving her tips on racing tactics and she knows how I race. So I didn’t know if my distance stamina could beat her strong sprinting ability and youth? I would find out tonight. At least Doug Hodson who I usually spar with in this race was on holiday so I didn’t have to think about him.

We were off and although I chose to be on the outside for cleaner water and no room in the middle of the group, my two competitors started sailing away, Jayden jumping on the wash of Kate and Steph’s double ski and Sharon who took off like a rocket managed to find the wash of Matt Jones. (Matt said later he was surprised to see Sharon sitting on his wash).

By the time I got to Sandy Beach (700 metres) I was in deep trouble and hadn't a ‘buckleys’ chance to win due to my competition already being 40 metres or more ahead. By this time I was behind Chris Hollier, who has a better sprinting ability than me, but I usually pass him about the 750 metre mark. Beside him was the double ski of Michael Leahy and Sally Harris and over to my right there were Geraint Maddison and Tim Edwards who I usually beat. Oh dear this might not be a good race!
It was painful seeing Sharon and Jayden so far ahead, but when I saw Sharon fall off the wash of Matt my hopes were raised, however I had a big distance to catch up and she was cruising a couple of boat lengths behind the double ski of Kate and Steph.

Although I was working hard behind Chris Hollier I knew I had to pass him to have any hope of catching up, so with a spurt in speed I moved onto his side wash before making a break and giving a chase. I just had to beat Sharon and Jayden or my life as a mentor paddler and someone to look up to would virtually come to an end and more importantly I wouldn't hear the last of it.
Once I got passed Chris I felt I was gaining on them but they were still a long way ahead. Luke Dooley and George Pankhurst in a double kayak had already turned and were a long way ahead of Harry Langley and Christopher Greed beating them in the end by 3 minutes 28 seconds.

At the 3km turn spit post, near the twin jetties at Point Reserve, Bassendean there was some hope of catching up as the gap between us was closing. I however had used a lot of energy to get this far and I would have to work harder to climb their washes and catch up but somehow with a lot of grunt and noises I did. Sharon was sitting back about two waves from the double seemingly relaxed and content to be there. When I got within spitting distance of her I was so happy. All I had to do now was to power over her last wash which I did. Without too much hesitation I continued on and paddled hard for another 10 metres and got onto Jayden’s wash who was wash riding the double ski. I was even happier to be there and wash ride for a while. At times I started to push a bit faster to try to lose Sharon who was still lagging behind me. I thought my strategy would tire her out, then I looked behind as we passed the Ascot Kayak Club and saw the thin nose of her boat still only metres away. Bugger she was still there.
 

At the 6.5km point crossing the shallow area on the west side of Ron Courtney Island I managed to keep up with Jayden, Kate and Steph which is a place I sometimes get left behind. It was roughly another kilometre to the second and last turn point and another kilometre to the finish line. Within 50 metres of the turn, near the boat ramp I started powering away hoping to get there first. I was on the inside so I had the best line, I turned well around the spit post and left the others behind putting as much power into my stroke as I could to try to keep the others from catching up on that last kilometre.

It seemed to be working fine then I started hearing paddlers shouting, we have to catch Terry or something like that. I knew they would be working together like raging bulls to catch me, but I just hung in there going ‘hell for leather’. The hair at the back of my neck started to stand up as I felt them charging towards me and about 350 metres from the finish line I caught a glimpse of the nose of Sharon’s K1 coming up on my left side like a speed boat with a big engine. I thought ‘shit I’m in trouble here’. On my right I heard the puffing of Jayden and within 50 metres or so of the finish line it was any ones race.

My reputation was on the line, could I keep these two youngsters at bay. Then Sharon who I had hoped to have left behind earlier levelled with me and Jayden, who had been wash-riding the double ski started wash riding me on my right. Sharon suddenly started to fly. I too opened my wings and flew with her and as we both paddled like our lives were on the line I had a few tense moments – is she going to beat me.

As spectators shouted for Sharon I gave it my all, but unfortunately for me she pipped me to the line by the narrowest of margins - a tough of a button - half a second. Jayden was under a second behind me so although Sharon had beaten me and ruined my life forever at least I beat Jayden. Sharon's partner Nick was there with his camera to get a photo and see history unfolding. He even agreed with the timers that Sharon did beat me! What favouritism.
  
What a race. That is what racing is all about. Winning and losing, and putting so much effort in, it feels good even when you lose. I don’t need a National Championship to enjoy a good race.

I knew this day would come when Sharon would beat me, but I was trying hard to delay the obvious. Now it's done. She was the victor tonight, but tomorrow is another day.
The double ski of Kate and Steph wasn't too far behind and Michael and Sally in a double ski were next to come in. Geraint, Ross, Tim, Kris, Izzy and David brought up the other AKC PRG places on the long course and Sue, Jo, Margie, Jeanette, Marie paddled the short course so the PRG group was well represented having 16 paddlers, nearly half the paddlers taking part.

All paddlers later gathered for a little food and drink that was supplied mostly by the ladies bringing a plate and I toasted with champagne – here’s to Sharon not beating me again.

Congratulations all paddlers. We paddled for a great cause and enjoyed ourselves immensely.

Another well organised race.

Results here:
https://www.webscorer.com/race?raceid=226474

Sharon is happy with her win.
 

Oh no I have been beaten.

Time to retire!

It was the Paddle WA AGM and Awards on Sunday afternoon.
 

There were several people nominated in each category including myself for the Contribution to the Sport.

 

Steve Mueller and Sue McDougall for the work done for securing the grant for the State Flatwater Slalom Course.

Volunteer of the Year.
 Ascot Kayak Club Basic Skills Course Instructors. 

Instructor/Guide of the Year was 
Geoff Emery

Andrew Crothers

Harriet Brown

Brett McDonald

Jane Pankhurst

 

The department think because there are now some cameras on the river they will stop speeding power boats but they don't. Now they want to allow jet skis.

These photos I took on the 16th October near Ascot Kayak Club and a popular area for swimming and paddling.

If jet skis are allowed to come up stream we certainly will be harassed and be put in danger.

Speed cameras on the river might help to identify a craft

but they have done little to stop them speeding.

Important for all paddlers to have their say -Community Consultation closes 30th October 2020
Swan River (Upper Reaches) Aquatic Use Review - Public Comment

The Department of Transport is proposing changes to the management of waters within the Swan River up stream of the Windan Bridge and welcomes feedback.
Please take 5 minutes to fill in the survey as there is potential to impact on all paddlers (regardless of craft paddled)

Swan Canoe Club

Open Day

National Team: Senior World Cup Squad / U23

A strong field of West Australians made the long journey to the heart of Tasmania to the intimidating Brady’s Lake. Just like the Wildwater National Championships held the weekend before, every WA paddler returns home with a medal. What a great start to 2019!

Friday marked the beginning of the national championships with all teams events taking place. The WA squad showed their strength early on, with Steven Lowther (AKC), Brodie Crawford (AKC) & Jack Choate (SCC) taking out the C1 Open Teams to win gold (pictured above).

Paddle Australia has announced the selections to the various Australian Canoe Slalom Teams for 2020. Congratulations to the following WA paddlers who have been selected:

Senior World Cup Team

Brodie Crawford – C1M
Steven Lowther – C1M
Ben Pope – K1M
Demelza Wall (WA/TAS) – C1W

Steven Lowther wins bronze at
Australian Canoe Slalom National Championships

Rising WA paddler Steven Lowther has claimed bronze in the men's C1 at the Australian Canoe Slalom National Championships at Penrith Whitewater Stadium over the weekend.

23-year-old Lowther who claimed the Oceania title in 2019 produced a consistent performance across the weekend to stand on the podium, in his first year out of the elite ranks.

In the semi-final, he picked up two penalty points to advance to the final on 102.72 points. Improving in the final with a score of 102.15, despite four penalty points saw him move up to claim bronze, just 4.05 points off the gold medal. Brodie Crawford nearly made it two WA paddlers on the podium in fourth, less than a point behind Lowther.
 

Kimberley Kayaking 1982

part 15
100 Days Solo

For the first time on the trip I really thought I would have to retreat, as I was being thrown around like a ping-pong ball. I felt some movement of going forward, but when I looked at the large rock that I was passing, it was still beside me. This was far the worst stretch of ocean I had experienced on the trip, and I began to wonder if or when I would capsize. Being nearer the cliff was worse as waves rebounded off the rocks and rock walls and then exploded in the air. I moved further out and gained inch by inch, but I didn’t know how long I could keep on the power. I eventually started making some progress, but I couldn’t be too cocky because I still had another point to go around.

Coming up to the next point the surf pounded the rocks establishing more uncertainty for my safety. The large wind waves gave no mercy and continued to push me towards the rocks. Several times my whole cockpit disappeared under water. The sea was merciless, and it had no intentions of making my passage any easier. This was the Kimberley, it wasn’t the size of the swell, but its reputation for extreme tidal currents that was legendary. I eventually fought my way into calmer waters and only then did I know that my troubles were over, for today at least as there were two good beaches close by to choose from. I decided to pick the one furthest away because the reef didn’t extend as far out as the first and it would be a better beach to leave from in the morning.

Within 1 km of my destination, and as I was rounding a point that was the shape of a finger, I noticed some large black rocks that were moving. For a moment I was mystified, then a huge whale suddenly surfaced only 15 metres to my left. As it slowly cruised and bobbed up and down, I couldn’t believe it. I suddenly lost my tiredness and I excitedly turned my boat to watch its movements as a squirt of water formed a fountain. It moved slowly and effortlessly across to the point that I had passed but I couldn’t understand why half the whale was going down and another part at the back was surfacing. I started following it and although it was moving slowly and smoothly I couldn’t keep up with it, but then it stopped in the middle of the cove. It floated motionless and my adrenaline was still pumping as I quickly paddled towards it. I moved within 20 metres, it disappeared and I felt a little insecure but it surfaced again and my heart started to steady. This time it floated and as I edged myself closer and closer it squirted a couple of water spouts. Then I noticed something at its side, something smaller, then a calf eventually showed itself and two squirts of water went up simultaneously. The mother laid there, it looked like the calf was feeding, but I couldn’t be sure. I moved in closer, within a kayaks length and noticed some branding marks which turned out being large deep scars possibly made by sharks attacking it. Every now and then they would squirt a little spray and move their heads, but other than that they kept quite still.

I watched and took film of the whales with my 16mm movie camera but I forgot to get still photos. I kept thinking I could hear high-pitched noises but I didn’t think it possible as I was above the water surface. My tireness started to overpower my will to watch. I had been watching for over an hour so I paddled a kilometre back to a beach and camped.

I was deadbeat, I had only paddled 25 km but it was mostly against the current. I didn’t feel the urge to get out of the kayak let alone unload my gear. I vividly remember the last exciting whale experience I had. I was on a two-week scuba diving trip on the barrier reef and I dived with a blue whale shark and that is another story.

A stingray patrolling the shallows escaped my spear. I don’t seem to have much luck calculating the water refraction when spearing fish or stingrays. At 1.45pm I started a fire and my pains were forgotten after having two hot drinks. I was now ready for my daily walk to check a creek for water, but it was the satisfaction I got from exploring new territory which I enjoyed the most. I moved through a forest of small trees, hundreds had been uprooted by high winds and kangaroo tracks intersected the dry grass. Following a bounding kangaroo it led me into a paperbark hollow. Indications showed that it would be flooded in the wet. I left the hollow and headed towards the mangroves. Red winged parrots, kingfishers and doves all gathered around the mangroves and another kangaroo, as big as a small bullock feeding took off along the trial. I found no water in the gully so I returned home to cook dinner. Before retiring I consumed about 6 cups of coffee. At home I never take sugar but out here I added a spoon in every cup. I always enjoyed a milo last thing at night and my favourite sweet was rice pudding as that was all I had. Out here I’m well satisfied when I’ve had a brew and a bowl of sweet rice pudding. It’s like heaven.

I was still writing at 10.40pm and I wasn’t alone, an oyster catcher on the mud flats seemed to be having a great time whistling away to its heart content.

****************
I slept absolutely awful and apart from not getting to bed till late, I was also damp and sticky, but the morning was cold which woke me several times.

Thirty minutes after leaving camp I met a whale coming from the direction of Deception Bay. For several minutes I lost sight of it and became concerned of his whereabouts. Knowing that I may soon be riding on a whale’s back I headed closer to shore, but then I spotted a shark so now I had two things to worry about. I finally heard a blowing sound, I saw nothing, but a few seconds later the whale surfaced as it headed further out to sea. Now I felt safer so I continued my paddle across the entrance of Deception Bay. The sea then became very lumpy as I moved along the cliffs.

After 20 kms and four hours of paddling I reached my campsite. It was nice to have a shorter day’s paddle. For once there was a tree that shaded my camp at the entrance of Sampson Inlet. My aim after having my usual cup of coffee and dried fruit lunch was to walk over to the creek 1 km north of my camp. It was tough walking, I nearly gave up but I pressed on reaching the creek. The better terrain allowed me to stride it out along the edge of the cliff and from a small cave a wallaby shot out and nearly took me with it. It gave me a fright. Having something rush at me like that isn’t good for my heart. The end of it is tail was dark and bushy. I followed the pleasant scenery of the shady cliffs and mangroves lining the creek. Birdlife became scarce but there were plenty of butterflies.

I left the creek and headed south across the difficult terrain towards Jackson Creek. Two Torres Straight pigeons, took to flight. They were pure white with blackish grey quills at the end of their wings and tail. I also disturbed a couple of coucal pheasants, which are a regular sight. I always remember reading Greys diary, he mentions that he shot several of them to eat. Reaching the tranquil setting of Jackson Creek two large pontoons, containing pearl baskets were anchored several hundred metres apart.

Returning from my three hour walk I still had ample time to write my diary and relax before it became dark. It was unusual but I was in bed by 7.30pm and up the next morning at 5:15am. The bay was calm only the small surf slapping against the rocks made any sound. Within one and a half kilometres I was rounding Battery Point and heading on my last leg into Kuri Bay. A decent sized fishing boat with a five or six men aboard powered over the westerly wind waves followed by an aluminium dingy driven by a speeding a Japanese man.

Sampson Inlet.
 

A pearling working raft.

The high cliffs were darker at the base and lighter from the centre to the top. Boab trees grew on the darker rocks. The cliffs were impressive. By the time I arrived at Needle Rock, the rush-hour continued with yet another boat powering towards Battery Point. Needle Rock was a rock formation in the bay looking like a pinnacle, a tall narrow rock that stands, like a solid statue on a reef surrounded by water.

Needle Rock was 200 to 300m from the cliffs on the southern side of the south entrance of the Brecknock Harbor. It is impossible to miss when entering by the south channel. High cliffs lined the mainland, bays and coves. Rounding the corner to Kuri Bay stacks of old drums and wire baskets were scattered along the shores. I focused on a patch of flowers behind the rocks, they were yellow and looked like daffodils next to a grave, but as I got closer the suns reflection disappeared leaving a small bush and a pile of rocks.

Needle Rock.
 

A view of Kuri Bay.

I could now see buildings, boats, rafts and a small crocodile only a few metres ahead. The size of the crocodile didn’t worry me at all so I never thought about diverting. It slowly sank out of sight leaving me to focus on the small community at the end of the cove. I was amazed at the amount of buildings and boats before me, but I could see no activity.

As I tied my kayak to the jetty, I heard shouting and two Thursday Islanders walked out of the kitchen. They pointed to the manager’s small house and office. As I walked into the office two Japanese men were putting away a fortune of pearls. They were not keen to see visitors in this part of the world and after seeing all the pearls put in the safe, I could understand why. When I told them that I was canoeist they greeted me warmly and showed me a file of letters that I had sent. My food parcels had been there for 11 weeks so they had thought that I wasn’t coming and had been eaten by a crocodile. Within minutes they organised a room for me, but first it was smoko time, a cup of coffee and some biscuits in the mess. I met the only four Europeans working there, all the other workers were either Thursday Islanders or Japanese.

The Japanese boss said I could put my things in the shed and gave me a T.I. to help me. In fact I ended up with five of them helping. Bob Haddock, storekeeper and handyman showed me my room and gave me a rundown on the place. Hot showers, washing machine and a bed with a pillow, I hadn’t expected so much hospitality and generosity.

Long before I started the trip I was in contact with John Woodman in the Broome office of Kuri Bay Pearls and he had been most helpful and arranged my gear to be transported on their boat to Kuri Bay. Having this help save me hundreds of dollars. Without the help of Kuri Bay Pearls I would have had to hire a chopper to do my food drop. There was only two ways into Kuri Bay, by boat or by chopper. With those restrictions few people passed this way.

With my sweat and salt water leaching into my clothes they were like cardboard and ready for a good wash, so it was great to have the washing machine. After the most beautiful lunch of cold meats, salad and heaps of cordial I started to sort out my gear. Maps that I no longer needed were sent back home, my new ones were stored in the kayak. I had lots of maps.

That evening when the TI’s returned from work they had speared a crocodile and were skinning it near the jetty. I watched with interest. The Aboriginals or the T.I’s are the only people who are legally entitled to kill crocodiles.

Thursday Islanders workers coming home with a god fish meal.

I sent a telegram to Jenny letting her know that I’d arrived safely at Kuri Bay. Instead of having dinner in the mess the three Europeans organised a barbecue at their quarters for me. They were saying that Paul Caffyn had briefly stopped there on his around Australia trip. He had left on the 9th and arrived in Broome on the 18^th. It took him nine days to do what I had done in 11 weeks, although he took every shortcut possible and paddled virtually all the time as to achieve a record. I was more than happy to detour to places of interest and to explore as much country I was able. Paul finished up paddling around Australia in under 12 months which was an incredible feat and I doubt if it will ever be beaten. Somehow along the way Paul and I, who were going in opposite directions passed somewhere south of Beagle Bay. I must admit, after hearing how many kilometres he was doing in a day I expected seeing him come out of the heat haze walking on water.

To help my steak and salad go down I drank three beers, that’s more beers that I’ve had for years. One of the bosses who joined us after dinner talked about Kuri Bay. The agricultural department thought that fruit fly was coming over here from the Indonesian Islands. So they brought in traps in the attempt to trap them. Since that time they now have a fruit fly problem, before that they had no fruit fly. There were many mangoes being grown at Kuri Bay, but the ravens, which were in the hundreds, ate them before they ripen. With no guns allowed at Kuri Bay there was no way of getting rid of these noisy creatures.

I spent most of my time messing around with my gear making improvements and fiberglassing the rear hull section where it had been worn down from dragging along the beach. It was like old times living and eating in a mess. When I worked at Camballin 80 miles east of Derby, Darwin and Port headland I lived in single men’s quarters and had meals in a mess.

The Japanese and the Europeans ate in one part of the mess, the Thursday Islanders ate in another part on the opposite side of the kitchen. Of course they both had different tastes of food so the Japanese cook had to please all three cultures. I had hitch hiked around Japan for four months so I was very familiar with Japanese food and with Japanese hospitality, so raw fish, rice balls, seaweed served in a mess was very welcome. Of all the countries I had been to, the Japanese people were the most hospitable and the scenery in Japan quite amazing.

Luke’s Cape to Cape Walk October 2020

It is never a good sign when you are out hiking alone in the wilderness to have dozens of people leave voice messages asking if you are still alive, but that became the reality of my most recent adventure. The cape to cape track covers 130 kilometres from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin and passes through towns such as Yallingup, Gracetown and Prevelly. Walkers can complete the journey in both directions; I chose the more popular option of walking north to south. It is a fantastic track to try out hiking for the first time as there are many options to suit walkers of all experience levels. I began on Monday and planned to take five days, however many choose to walk over seven or eight days. Many also choose to complete it with day packs and get picked up and taken to their hotel at the end of their day but I carried all my gear in one huge pack and camped out along the way; doing it properly in other words.

I was fortunate enough to stay with Alaine and her husband Tom in Augusta the night before I began who showed me the sights around their beautiful town. Tom was also kind enough to drive me all the way to the start on his day off so all I had to do was walk back. I began around eight o’clock at Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and was instantly able to appreciate my awe-inspiring surroundings. The first attraction was Sugarloaf Rock which I was able to reach quickly because the first few kilometres were a paved footpath. I knew though that the easy going on smooth paths would not last. The swell was spectacular as the enormous sets running the length of the coastline pounded the cliffs. The rock itself sat on the point absorbing the impacts and shooting water into the air. The red of the rocks was really illuminated against the shimmering blue of the water.

I walked through a 'garden'.

My pack carried five days of food and up to 7 litres of water, as well as all my camping gear and clothes so it was very heavy. I was glad Terry had given me some pieces of foam which I used to keep the pack from rubbing off all the skin of my hips. I was shocked to learn that other walkers on the trail were only carrying one or two litres of water. There were plenty of opportunities to fill up along the way though I preferred to carry plenty so there was less chance of things turning sour if something went wrong.

Within a few hours I reached Mt Duckworth campsite which was only 11 kilometres in. I decided to push onwards and reach Moses Rock campsite which was 35 kilometres from the start so I could be home by Saturday. Just after midday I reached Smith’s Beach. There were lots of surfers out enjoying the last day of the school holidays and the water looked very inviting. DPaW still had the trail closed and the 2.5-kilometre detour around the jagged rocks was not very enjoyable. It took me into the bush and up a hot, sandy hill and I began to get baked. There was no wind or any view because of the thick bush so it was hot, hard work. I was glad though when I reached the end of the detour that I had taken it because the other route looked full of sharp rocks and very difficult terrain. The section around Canal Rocks was very difficult and felt more like rock climbing than hiking. Most places would have been easy going if it weren’t for my enormous pack weighing me down. I quickly worked out a system to stay hydrated where I would stop every hour on the hour for five to ten minutes and have a drink of water and a little snack. My plan worked really well and it was a big relief to be able to take my pack off every now and then. As the evening drew nearer the temperature dropped a little and the lower light made my surrounding scenery even more special. I eventually made it to camp around six o’clock and managed to use the last of the light to set up and cook before having an early bedtime.

The waves pounded the spectacular coastline.

I was up and going much earlier on the second morning and went straight into more amazing scenery. Just after a place called Wilyabrup Creek I was presented with an enormous valley. As I walked down I struggled to put my camera away. The red colour in the rocks was just fantastic; as was the smoky grey of the dormant trees. It was a difficult and steep climb up some steps on the way out but it became one of the highlights of my trip. Shortly afterwards I came to a series of very tall hedges with flowers all over the place. It was amazing how much the scenery could change as it felt like I was walking through a garden with millions of bugs and bees busy zooming from flower to flower. It would have been a nightmare for anybody who had hay fever. On the second day I only needed to cover 19 kilometres however the next day would be 30 so when I got to Ellensbrook camp I filled my reserve water container and continued on a little further. It was just as I got to the top of the next big hill and came into phone reception that I received endless missed call notifications and texts from people checking I was still alive. A few weeks earlier I had been doing work experience with an electrical company working on the Curtin exchange construction site doing the wiring in one of the four multistorey buildings. Tragically while I was out on the trail a glass roof had collapsed on the site and the news headlines read ‘Apprentice Killed in Building Collapse at Curtin Exchange Site.’ A lot of concerned people had rung me up to check that I hadn’t been involved in the accident. I didn’t help to ease their minds that I hadn’t replied for more than six hours and my calls were going straight to message bank because I hadn’t had phone signal for a while. They were eventually relieved to hear that I wasn’t involved. I camped that night on the side of a four wheel drive track and took the opportunity to use my own picturesque private beach for a wash and a swim.

The third day was very difficult. In the morning I raced towards the Margret River mouth and went barrelling down the steep hills and onto Kilcarnup Beach. My knee was beginning to ache and I didn’t help things by missing the exit of the beach and having to back track for a few minutes to find the trail again. The river crossing was something I had very much been looking forwards to and I did enjoy taking my boots off and wading through the water which came three quarters of the way up my legs. After I sat down my knee began to really seize. Getting up was a real struggle and even taking more than five steps was nearly impossible with the stabbing pain. It had been just bearable going downhill but now it was almost impossible to walk at all. I spent an hour trying to make progress as the rain showers came and went but it was not getting any better. I was nearly forced to ring Alaine to collect me so I could go home but I decided to push through. As I slowly crept over a few more kilometres I was able to hobble faster and faster. Just before lunch time I came to a spot which looked like a cliff on the terrain profile of my map. It was the track down to Boodjidup Brook and it dropped 130 metres in less than half a kilometre. It slowed me right down but I managed to hobble along and find a nice spot in the cool brook where I could bathe my knee and apply a compression bandage. Walking became a lot easier after I treated my knee and I soon reached Bob’s Hollow. The caves in the side of the cliff looking out to sea seemed as though it could be a villain’s lair in some sort of action movie. I also got a bit of a jump when I came around the corner and spotted a large goanna lying in the sun. He was a very impressive lizard but I made sure not to get too close. A couple of minutes later I had to stop again as my first snake for the trip slid across the track in front of me. It was only a small one but it gave me a shock and I waited until it was long gone before I crossed where it had been.

Around the Cosy Corner area was the highlight of the trip.

As I walked further I saw a trail going down to the beach and followed it. After another five minutes I was having difficulty finding the next trail marker. I searched for a while longer. I thought I saw a trail off in the distance and so tried to bash through the thick bush to get to it. Only a few hundred metres in my legs were being torn to pieces and it soon became impenetrable. After a lot of frustration I decided it was stupid to continue on like this and backtracked with my sore knee right back to the top of the hill. After an exhausting climb and nearly 45 minutes I finally found the trail again. I had missed one of the wooden posts and had gone down onto the beach instead of going up and around the cliffs because the trail head marker was missing. It was very frustrating and had cost me a lot of time and energy and made my day even worse with my sore knee. It was very disappointing that so many markers were missing. The track is marked with wooden posts which have a trail head marker on them. I estimate that four out of every ten wooden posts I came to were missing the marker; likely because walkers and other tourists were taking them as souvenirs. It was a real shame and is very irresponsible of the people taking them as it can be very dangerous for people who become lost and injure themselves trying to tackle terrain which is not part of the track.

My camp at Point Road was my favourite of the trip as there was only one other person there and it was a really beautiful camp in amongst the tall trees. The next morning went really well as I was away by 7 o’clock and had already covered 15 kilometres by 10 o’clock. After a testing 6 kilometre walk along the beach to Hamelin Bay I was able to buy an ice cream and a post card from the shop and joined three other walkers for lunch. There was only about 7 kilometres left to walk before Deepdene campsite after lunch. Cosy Corner was the most spectacular part of my whole trip. The sun was shimmering off the water amongst the islands out in the bay. There was also another beautiful white sandy beach and an array of my favourite red rocks on the point as well as some sooty oystercatcher birds with fantastic red beaks. A strange reef with countless tube shaped holes in the rocks which went nearly two metres deep lined the other end of the bay. At the bottom it was hollow and I could hear the waves lapping against the sides in the pitch black. It was one of the most peculiar and amazing reef formations I’d ever seen. It was also very dangerous because it would be very easy to fall down one of the chutes and extremely difficult to climb back out again. There was also the possibility of drowning as the tide rose and little chance of being spotted as it was very dark at the bottom. I was very surprised to see the Leeuwin Lighthouse around the bend and it was really uplifting as I knew there was not much of the trail left. Camp was very busy that night as there were a lot of people there and it was a very small campsite in comparison to the others. Thankfully everybody else was exhausted too so they went to bed nice and early.

The final morning was a 7 kilometre slog along the beach and then another 8 kilometres over and down a hill to the finish. I smashed out the beach in a little over an hour and continued up the hill. Suddenly I came to a halt as a small snake about 20cm long slithered across the path in front of me. Even if you are not particularly concentrating on the ground it becomes an instinctive reaction to suddenly freeze when something moves in front of you that you aren’t expecting. I certainly didn’t want a bite from the snake as it would be a very tricky morning trying to get myself some help. By 9:30 I had covered 12 kilometres and was looking down the final hill towards my enormous white finish post. When  I got to the waterwheel carpark it seemed I was back to reality as there were lots of tourists which I hadn’t really seen much of during my journey. The position of the lighthouse was just perfect; right out on the point of the cape so it could be seen for miles. It was as if the coast was purposely shaped to accommodate the lighthouse so it could be seen from the 270 degrees of ocean that it served. I passed some more spectacular red rocks and a very impressive little cave system with some fresh water trickling down and soon reached the entrance to the lighthouse. It was great that the ticket office waved hikers through for free and as I looked out over the waves with the Indian Ocean to my right and Southern Ocean on my left I knew my work was done. It had been a very enjoyable trip and wasn’t without its challenges which meant I felt a nice sense of achievement to be finished. Shortly after I got changed, Tom arrived to pick me up which I was very fortunate for as he had to shut his shop for a few minutes to come and collect me. That evening I enjoyed a lovely meal at the pub with Alaine and Tom and afterwards we reviewed all of my photos from the trip. It had been another wonderful experience and I look forward to my next adventure wherever that might be.

Luke Dooley

Five young goslings join the 21 odd geese living around Point Reserve, Bassendean.
 

Geese can be very noisy at night so I'm glad they don't live near me.
 

An egret stands in the shallows close to where I launch my kayak.

Indian Ocean Paddlers

Races

Summer Series dates are now locked in. We are also very pleased to announce that Brad and Kate Hardingham Realmark have agreed to stay on board as our seasons sponsor. This support for IOP is massively appreciated.
Race dates:
7th November
21st November / WCD
28th November / Doctor
12th December Xmas paddle
9th Jan 2021
30th Jan
20th Feb
13th March

Next race 7th November