Although I have still been paddling my SUP I have now got back in my kayak, although I must admit not as much as paddling the SUP. I'm also trying to get used to paddling my high kneeling C1 again so as to compete in the State Sprint Champs in K1 & C1 next weekend. (Entries close this weekend.)

The C1 is a little bit trickier than paddling a K1 as 5 paddlers found out on Wednesday night who tried paddling it and only managed no more than 6 metres before falling in.

I forgot to set my alarm for 5.00am this morning so as to get to the river and place 24 buoys out for the Wild Water practise session. I woke up at 5.30am, dressed quickly and flew out of the house and drove 600 metres to Claughton Reserve. I did however managed to get the buoys out before the group came. 

We had another great  session. I saw a lot of improvement in all the paddlers who have only just started paddling a Wavehopper type of boat. These skill sessions are so important for paddling skills development. Even if you don't take up Wild Water paddling the skills learnt are still very valuable.   

There is still time to donate to the Prostate Cancer Foundation and win a collection of books and other goods.

https://fundraise.pcfa.org.au/fundraisers/terrybolland

 See the items further below.

Photo Isabel Maddison.

After 14 months paddling a Stand Up Board (and a little kayaking) I'm back in my kayak for the Saturday Dash.

Unfortunately for the first time Robin Jacob beat me in the 8 km race. I managed to keep on his wash but he beat me to the finish line by a second. As he did most of the work he certainly deserved the win. My concern is - will I ever be able to beat him again?

Progressive Racing Group

Ashley Townsend and Daniel Van Der Nest.

Mr & Mrs Geraint & Isabel Maddison.

Luke Dooley

Paddling to Kalbarri

Luke arrived north of Geraldton. 
He arrived at Horrock's Beach on Tuesday so he should be in Kalbarri today.

The end of a days paddle.

Summer Wild Water Training

Claughton Reserve, Bayswater, 6.00am Friday

Kevin Kelly 1st in a Wavehopper.

Daniel looked fast in his run but Kevin was a few seconds faster.

Daniel Van Der Nest has improved enormously over the last 3 weeks.

Kate Crossing flying around the buoys.

Murray Cox is getting better with every practise.

First & Second Runs

Ash T.  4.45 & 3.08

Kevin K. 3.27 & 3.24

Braden 3.29 & 3.33

Daniel V. 3.32 & -

John B. 3.35 & 3.32

Murray. 3.40 & 3.41

Robin J. 3.40 & 3.47

Selena L. 3.46 & 3.43

Marie A. 3.51 & 3.46

Kate C. 4.06 & -

Keiran. 4.24 & 4.28

Debbie R.  4.53 & 4.57

David. ---- & 4.56

Celebrating 50 Years of Paddling

Year 1987

Kimberley Kayak Expedition #4

Retracing George Grey’s 1838 Kimberley Inland expedition had kept me in suspense for a few years but it wasn’t until 1987 that I managed to interest Ken Cornish, another keen paddler and Ascot Kayak Club member to join me.

After sailing from Europe and up into the Kimberley, Grey started his overland expedition from Hanover Bay, near the Prince Regent River and on foot he and his team meandered southwards towards and across the Glenelg River. His three month ordeal was plagued with problems from the beginning. He had small unbroken ponies from Timor that deteriorated because of the lack of feed, severe weather and the difficult terrain conditions. Grey also became wounded by an Aboriginal spear and lived with his wound throughout the expedition. Despite his hardships he also made some remarkable discoveries, including being the first white man to see and record spectacular Wandjina Aboriginal paintings.

To reach the site of Grey’s expedition Ken Cornish and I had to drive 2300 kilometres north from Perth to Derby and then paddle for three weeks along the treacherous Kimberley coast to the Prince Regent River area. Once there we would start our walk and retrace Grey’s complete inland route, find the caves, go to his furthest point and try to finish the expedition on the same date and place that he did, but 149 years later. Then we would paddle back to Broome. It sounded simple, but to be there at the same time as Grey though meant that we had to tackle the Kimberley and paddle up the coast in the wet season.

It was early March 1987 and the wet season brought very high temperatures and unsettled weather conditions. A cyclone had recently deluged the area and another was expected to strike at any time.

Our starting point of Derby, one of the original Kimberley pastoral towns and the gateway to the beautiful gorges, is situated at the bottom of King Sound some 130 kilometres from the open ocean and surrounded by mangrove lined shores indented with tidal creeks and mud flats. It boasts the highest tidal range in the southern hemisphere, and the second highest in the world. It has an 11 metre rise and fall at the wharf. The effect of the massive tidal range controls shipping movements, creates swift currents, rapids, whirlpools and boils. The mangroves and mud flats of course create a great habitat for crabs and crocodiles and a few other predators.

Retracing George Greys Inland Journey.

Derby to Prince Regent River and return to Broome.

Our last night before our departure had been a crazy night. We had so much packing and organising to do, as well as telephone calls, and paper work that we had to leave with the police so I was packing until midnight. We are always thinking about saving money but we were pleased that we decided to rent a caravan instead of camping with such hot, humid conditions.

Ken was tired and I think feeling unsure and concerned of what we were doing, so he crashed at 9.15pm. The police had put doubts in his mind as they said we could become lost, be washed away with the tides or be eaten by crocodiles. The cost of a rescue would be huge and if we weren’t found our families wouldn’t get any insurance money for seven years. It was Ken’s first expedition and he had never been separated from his wife Vivian and his two children before, so it was a big step and he was really wondering if he doing the right thing?

It seemed that everything, plus the stress of packing and trying to get all our gear in his small kayak was weighing heavily on his shoulders. For me it was much easier as I had done several other such dangerous trips and been away from my wife before.

We had driven a long way so there was no turning back for me and when Ken was rustling at 5.00am to start our first day of the expedition it was a good sign. It wasn’t long before we had driven down to the wharf and were trying to squeeze a huge amount of gear into our small kayaks as a reporter was trying to get photos and an interview with us before we left. The smell of rotting fish left on the boat ramp urged us to pack quickly but it’s never easy packing on the first day as there is always something you can’t squeeze into the compartments. Within 30 minutes the tide was streaming out so fast it had soon exposed twenty metres of mud. Finally we were packed but it was impossible to drag the heavy kayaks through the thick oozing mud at the bottom of the ramp so we had no alternative but to lift them to the brown murky water trying not to slip or hurt ourselves.

Packing a narrow kayak on the first day of an expedition is always a challenge.

Derby wharf.

So at 7.30am on Monday 9th March 1987, with perspiration pouring down our faces and mud lathering our legs we entered our small kayak cockpits and paddled away from the Derby wharf. There was no chance of landing to stretch our legs on the first 35 kilometre section of thickly lined mangrove shoreline until we reached Point Torment, so we kept paddling keeping a close eye out for crocodiles. Despite it being a crocodile habitat, we saw no sign of them but the water was brown as mud so they were probably well camouflaged and watching us. The day was steaming and 35 kilometres is probably not that far to paddle, but after the lack of training in the last two weeks it was far enough on the first day. With aching bodies we entered the shallows of Point Torment as a large fish jumped out of the water near Ken and another hit me on the side giving me quite a thump and surprize.

We were well happy to land at Point Torment on the only beach that afforded us safe camping away from the rising tide. The mud flats of the low tide stretched 600 metres from the beach and after landing our daily ritual started. One hundred and forty kilograms had to be carried to the safety of the beach, taking two hours to complete. Menacing mosquitoes, sand flies and the heat made us very welcome on our first night out. We were in crocodile country surrounded by mud flats and mangroves, not the best place to be camped but Ken’s and my snoring would have kept them away. With crocodiles on our mind, the tent flapping throughout the night, hundreds of hermit crabs crawling over our gear and attacking our cooking pots, sleep was hard to muster. It was so hot that in the middle of the night that we both woke and decided to move the tent to face it towards the wind, but it didn’t help, and to make matters worse we allowed mosquitoes to get in.

The weather eventually cooled at 5.00am which made sleeping possible but it was time to get up as we had a big day ahead of us. It wasn’t pleasant entering the darkness of a mangrove forest being attacked by squadrons of mosquitoes from all angles. The tide was 200 metres out but we had no choice but to walk up and down the exposed flats several times to get to the water and load our kayaks.

Being paddle fit from the start of our journey was fairly crucial as on our second day we had to cross a 45 kilometre bay with no landing spots and a huge tidal movement. In such open water the unpredictable tide was a concern as we just might get pushed back to where we had come. We also didn’t know if crocodiles were lurking beneath the brown water or if the wet season heat would be too much and destroy our dream.

The low Point Torment soon vanished and all we could see behind us was the shimmering heat haze. We were soon lost to the solitude of Stokes Bay and the perilous sea. For 8 hours the mystery and movements of the ocean kept us in suspense and it was hard to know what the tidal effects were having on us but we were crossing the bay on neap tides, the best time, as there was less rise and fall of the tide. Our fluid intake was high so we had to make sure we had enough water at hand and in 8 hours on the water Ken had consumed 7 litres. The high ridges of the mainland were a welcoming sight and when we finally paddled into bluer waters and scurry up a safe shelly beach we were so happy to have the dirty brown water of the King Sound behind us. I walked up the beach and found a small gulley with crystal clear water. We unloaded, settled for a cool refreshing wash and rested near the small stream. We were in a completely different world to last night and a much better one.

The cliffs behind our camp were too inviting so we changed into our walking gear and went for a stroll and capture some of the beauty from the high hills. Twenty minutes later we found another gulley with a bigger stream and two wallabies that bounded across the boulders. Exploring around the area of our camping sites was really special as we knew that no other person would have walked or seen the country where we walked.

The tidal mud/sand flats of Cascade Bay. 
A long carry to the beach. 

As we moved on we were surrounded by high hills, steep cliffs and beautiful sandy beaches. In another part of Australia we would be swimming but not up here. Tidal currents slowed us but we still reached Cascade Bay camp by 3.00pm where we climbed the high ridge the following day and got more spectacular views of the area. You could spend months around here and not get bored. The area was now familiar territory for me as I paddled this section in 1982 on my first solo Kimberley expedition.

A view from the top of the range.

Ken having a well earned drink. 

A view looking down to our camping beach.

The ten metre tides created super swift currents especially around Hells Gate where there was a cluster of islands just off a mainland point of Crawford Bay. No other place in Australia will you see such swift currents. The coastline north from here zig-zag for thousands of kilometres as large and small bays indent it, again like in no other place in Australia. Huge orange sandstone cliffs towered down to the water’s edge preventing beaches from forming although there always seemed to be a beach within a few hours’ paddle.

The King Sound is full of fast currents and tidal rapids.

This is part of a section called Hell's Gate.

In Cone Bay we camped on a beach next to a sweet running stream. I had camped here in 1982 and met the Johnson family who lived in Derby but used to come here by speed boat and camp. We climbed the cliffs behind the camp to visit the next bay which had the shack that a guy called XenX had built. He was eventually arrested for taking drugs and when we arrived at the buildings they had been vandalised and the area was overgrown. When I visited it in 1982 and met XenX and his friend it was in immaculate condition. It was sad to see it in such a state.

Entering Cone Bay.

A couple of delightful small pools fed by a small stream made the ideal place to cool off. Ken who has been suffering from a sore back in the last two days and so early into our trip lay in the pool and just relaxed. We continued looking around the two shacks and followed a concrete path made of local stone when a brown snake slithered behind me and in front of Ken. The lush overgrown vegetation, banana and papaw trees, buildings in ruin and lots of water was an ideal habitat for snakes.

Views from the top of the cliff were just amazing and we could see our route ahead thread between a mass of islands which formed the stunning Buccaneer Archipelago. You couldn’t falter the scene. Back at camp another thunderstorm threatened, the wind gusted strongly and our gear got scattered as we tried to erect the tent.

A fresh water rock pool at the top of the range next to the old XenX's camp.

We had to be watchful for snakes.

A large termite nest at the top of Cone Bay range. 

We crossed Cone Bay to be stopped at Datum Bay by the low tide. Underfoot was all reef and corals with black tipped sharks patrolling the shallows for food. They came within metres of us and we were shocked by their size and we were happy they darted off in another direction when they saw us. The tide started to come in and when it was high enough to float the kayaks we got pushed along the channel and into another section of exposed reef which made us get out to prevent our kayaks from being pushed over the sharp coral. We didn’t count on the current being so powerful as it was a mammoth task trying to hold onto our boats. We had no choice but to jump back in them or our kayaks would have got washed away without us. The tide suddenly started to come in from the other direction and it was if the taps were turned on full blast from the north and the south. We paddled out of the channel against the current as fast as possible.

We had crossed Cascade Bay, Crawford Bay, Cone Bay and after crossing Strickland Bay we entered Whirlpools Pass with the currents swirling. It was 38 degrees and that evening the moon was full. I knew of a water rock hole a few kilometres across the island so we went for a hot walk and found the rock hole full of water and a perfect place to cool off.

To the left Whirlpool Pass on the change of tide.

A walk to find a rock fresh water hole.

Two days later after visiting Cockatoo Island we arrived at Koolan Island where our first food drop was waiting. We stayed overnight courtesy Bob Stoeski who let us use his flat and treated us to meals. With replenished food supplies we paddled away from Koolan Island and further into the wilderness. The tide was advancing quickly into the surrounding bays requiring us to perform a 5 kilometre ferry glide across the swift currents.

16mm camera on the front deck and a .22 rifle in case and solar panel on the rear deck.

Birds Along The Way

Buff-banded Rail.

These birds can be difficult to capture on the camera as they are very shy and will skitter back into the undergrowth when they see me getting close.

Sacred Kingfisher.

Osprey.

Rainbow Bee-eater.

Unfortunately the sun was not is a good position.

Great Egret.

Still time to Donate and Win

Terry Bolland's Paddle for Prostate Cancer

If You would like to donate to the Prostate Cancer Foundation - 

Please Donate here:- 

https://fundraise.pcfa.org.au/fundraisers/terrybolland

Many thanks, Terry.

Donate and 3 people will be drawn out to win

Books - Birds Along The Way - A Race Along The Way (Yukon River) - Three Rivers to Tuktoyaktuk and Kimberley Challenge.

A set of Tie Downs, a CDU Water Bottle, a Dry Bag and a 4 ply Toilet Roll (not used).

Will be drawn on January 26th.

Canning Classic is coming - Save the Date. 
Sunday 22nd February Kent Street Weir Wilson 
Lots of prizes
Race Distance 
Long course 12 km - 6km downstream and back, portage around the weir, 6km upstream and back. 5 boat grid starts.
Short course ~6 km